A global field guide to design, (life)style and secret finds est. 2007
London must-eat: Knickerbocker Glory at Fortnum & Mason
Londoners, may I suggest a little ice-cream to relive that glorious Indian summer you were enjoying last week? The retro delight of Knickerbocker Glory at Fortnum & Mason’s Parlour Restaurant is beckoning, and it’s been doing so since 1955.
The Parlour is located on the first floor of Piccadilly’s 300 year-old department store, and the Knickerbocker Glory arrives in a tall glass on a stainless steel tray, with a long spoon to scoop up every last skerrick of chunky-creamy goodness.
The £12 ice treat, which boasts vanilla bean, strawberries and 12-year old balsamic vinegar, as well as frosted strawberry and shortbread ice-cream with raspberries, pineapple chunks and raspberry coulis, is an updated version of the original recipe, which F&M first served to curious Londoners in 1955.
While today’s creation isn’t exactly traditional, it succeeds in transporting me to 1950s-formica-and-soda-fountain heaven at Morellis and the Kentish seaside (and if you just clicked on that link, you’d be transported to Wee Birdy circa 2009 – check out the smaller column and photo format! Awww, look at that: blog nostalgia.)
The Beekeeper sundae is also a winner, featuring stem ginger with borage honey, vanilla bean and praline ice-cream topped with Fortnum’s honey (from the rooftop beehives) and honeycomb chunks. It’s not on the menu at the moment, but hopefully it will make a return in spring next year.
Just as delightful was the cappuccino, which arrived with a bonus mini icecream cone attached to the saucer. My one small complaint? While the Parlour attempts to replicate a relaxed‘50s vibe, it somehow lacks some of the old-fashioned elegance of the Fountain Restaurant downstairs, or the loveliness of the classic mirrored walls and glass sweet jars on the ground floor.
I guess the café table set-up just feels a tad ‘ordinary’ by comparison. Still, it’s a gorgeous light and bright space overlooking Piccadilly, so head to one of the tables by the window, or if you have kids, perch on the stools at the bar.
The Parlour at Fortnum & Mason 181 PiccadillyLondon W1 Tel. 020 7734 8040Nearest tubes: Piccadilly and Green ParkClick here for a Wee Birdy map.Opening hours:Monday to Saturday 10am-7.30pmSunday 12Noon-5.30pmBank Holidays 10am-5.30pmDress code: The Parlour requests that “both sexes lean more towards elegance”. Quite.For reservations tel. 0845 602 5694 9am to 6pm, Monday to Saturday or book online.
{Photography by Wee Birdy.}