Best of London shopping: Dover Street Market*
It’s easy to feel intimidated walking into Dover Street Market, arguably London’s number one cutting-edge shopping destination. When I first arrived in London last year, I wasn’t really sure what to expect, but gathered it was something along the lines of Colette in Paris. So far, so (very) good.
But with "market" in the title, I was initially thinking on a linear level, as opposed to an uber-department store with six floors dedicated to fashion, design and art. And with terms like "avant-garde", "groundbreaking" and "edgy" bandied about in the press over the past three years, I was half-excited and half-scared, fearing six floors of pretension and a f***-off attitude to boot.
Emerging
from the lift onto the fourth floor, I was immediately struck by a few
things. Firstly, a vintage anatomy plaster model of a foetus in utero,
the kind of thing you’d find in a university science lab from the
fifties; secondly, my beloved Labour and Wait’s
counter of traditional homewares (think balls of twine, sturdy
gardening tools and French stripey tops); and finally, a rack of Commes
des Garcon’s PLAY line, mixed in with designers such as Commuun, Toga Archives, and Veronique Branquinho.**
All this and the comforting homely aroma of freshly baked scones
pervading from the Rose Bakery in the corner of the room (more on this
in another post). It’s kinda crazy and cool and I love it.
But let’s turn down the “crazy” dial for the moment, after all, there is serious fashion to consider. Dover Street Market is the brainchild of Commes des Garcon’s Rei Kawakubo, and it features well over 50 designers, with numerous exclusive collaborations and all 14 CdG lines.
Kawakubo challenges traditional concepts of merchandising by mixing top designers such as Dior, Galliano and Alaïa, with lesser-known labels sourced from all over the world. Menswear merges with womenswear, and unexpected suprises (like the voodoo-vibed World Archives stall and Emma Hawkins’ Victorian collection of taxidermy, animal skeletons and vintage plaster anatomy models) keep shoppers engaged and excited. And by inviting the various designers to curate and regularly update their own space, Kawakubo breathes new life into fashion retail.
Personal highlights include Very Lustre’s ultra-modern diamond jewellery; Boudicca’s velvet-draped birdcage dressing room, complete with mirror and bell; Parisien Didier Ludot’s ultimate LBD range, and Cameron Silver’s “Decades” stall (a little piece of Melrose in Mayfair, where I spied heart-stopping premium vintage pieces by Azzedine Alaïa, Missoni and YSL couture). I was also enamoured by Japanese label Sacai’s simple and relaxed knitwear, as well as Sacai Luck’s ultra-femme lingerie line featuring pretty camisoles and shorts in cashmere and silk.
On each visit to DSM, I've found it increasingly difficult to walk past the range of Pierre Hardy shoes without drooling all over the wares, and it was nice to see Australian designer Michelle Jank’s eclectic one-off neckpieces. And the one-off creations by London’s premier milliner Stephen Jones for DSM are always fun and fanciable (I loved the adorable A/W 2007 "Chic!" berets). I could go on and on … each 'stall' is worthy of an individual post, so you can expect additional posts and updates on DSM in the future.
**NB: this post was originally written in January 2008 so some of the installations and designers I've described have changed since then.
Dover Street Market
17-18 Dover St,
London W1
Tel: 020 7518 0680
Nearest tube: Green Park
Click here for a Wee Birdy map.
Opening hours:
Monday to Saturday 11am-6pm
Thursday 11am-7pm
All images courtesy of Dover Street Market.
Click here for more shops in W1.
* Please bear with me - I'm flying back to my Sydney nest so I'm digging into the Wee Birdy archives for a couple of weeks. Normal posting (and ace new London shops) will resume shortly. xx
