Progressive San Francisco brand Upper Playground is well-known for driving the fusion of art and fashion, and it has launched its foray into the European market with the recent opening of a boutique store in London. In addition to its Californian art gallery FIFTY24SF, the brand provides an opportunity for contemporary artists around the world to showcase their work on men’s and women’s street wear.
Artist-commissioned t-shirts are priced at £25 and feature funky designs by prominent names such as Sam Flores, Jeremy Fish, Saber and Cope. Upper Playground has a huge following in the hip-hop and skate crowd, but the idea of limited-edition fashion is also gaining popular appeal for those looking for an alternative to mass-produced High Street style.
The basement boutique is just around the corner from Carnaby Street, and it features a small gallery space with a current exhibition of photography by Estevan Oriol. His images of legendary tattooist Mr Cartoon (his work decorates the bodies of celebrities like Fifty Cent, David Beckham and Juliette Lewis) add a gritty dimension to the store. I dig Herbert Baglione’s tote bags with their whimsical cat and moon design (£12) and Sam Flores’ cushions (£30). Now you really can wear your art on your sleeve.
A wee birdy told me that Katie, 21, is wearing a Laura Lees at Topshop top, vintage beads from Edinburgh, vintage green cardigan from Rusty Zipper in Edinburgh, jeans from Top Shop and headband from Miss Selfridge.
If Marie Antoinette really did say, “Let them eat cake”, then she’d be delighted to visit French patisserie Laduree and watch Parisians (and the rest of the world) doing just that.
It’s not surprising that director Sophie Coppola chose Laduree to create the sumptious cakes and towering treats for her visually stunning film Marie Antoinette.
Laduree is one of the oldest patisseries in Paris, and its original salon on rue Royale was founded in 1862. The ornate gilt-edged tea room features chubby cherubs painted on the ceiling, not unlike Marie Antoinette’s rooms at the Palace of Versailles. Whilst the King favoured more austere maroon and dark green, the Queen’s rooms are lighter and brighter with a dominant colour palette of golds, creams and pastels.
Ah, pastels. Laduree’s famous macaroons, tinted in the most delicate shades seemingly taken from the walls of the Queen’s bedroom, are the reason why people flock here every day.
These petit bites of bliss come in a startling range of flavours, including vanilla, coffee, rose petal, chocolate, pistachio, salted butter caramel, cherry amaretto, raspberry, orange blossom and liquorice. They also offer seasonal flavours, such as lemon, coconut, and chestnut. You can see Marie Antoinette nibbling away now.
I arrived in time for lunch, where the elegant club sandwiches come with a side of hand-cut frites. The extensive selection of tea was also overwhelming, and I decided to go with the fragrant Marie Antoinette blend, which was spiked with fruit oils and rose petals.
But there’s more to come, including a display case of cakes, pastries and chocolates. The religieuses are something else altogether. I had assumed they were so-named because eating them would be akin to a religious experience. Er, that would be wrong. Apparently they are meant to resemble a nun. (Make sense? Nah, me either, unless the pastry chef had a big blob as a teacher at school.) But I DO love this blackcurrant-violet religieuse, made from choux pastry, blackcurrant and violet-flavoured confectioner’s custard:
In the end, I go with four mini macaroons, the most perfect morsels to end my Marie Antoinette-esque experience. Oh lordy, it IS a religious experience.
Laduree 16 rue Royale (8th arr.) There are five other Laduree shops in Paris, as well as a Laduree tearoom in Harrods, London.
There are more shopping gems in the 4th arrondissement, which is home to the traditional Jewish area of the Marais, as well as Ile St. Louis, the tiny neighbouring island to Ile de la Cite and Notre Dame. This area is perfect for an afternoon’s stroll across the Seine (and a magical view of Note Dame’s flying buttresses). Here are my favourite speciality stores (and some very good bakeries, creperies and sweet shops).
K. Jacques 16 rue Pavee This small boutique is dedicated to just one thing: quality leather sandals. And there are hundreds of them, in all different styles and colours. They’re not cheap (average price €150) but they’ll serve you well. New York fashion editors make a beeline for this shop when they're in Paris.
Pleats Please 3 bis rue des Rosiers Stop here for Issey Miyake’s celebrated range of pleated garments. The tops are practical and great for travel, as the permanent pleats never require ironing. The simple shapes and lines look sculptural on the body, and are available in a range of colours and prints.
Florence Finkelsztajn 24 rue des Ecouffes This fabulous Jewish bakery specialises in pastries such as cheesecake and apple strudel.
Melodies Graphiques 10 rue du Pont Louis Philippe I had only been in this shop for five minutes when I had the sudden urge to quit emailing and immerse myself in the old-fashioned art of writing letters. This little store has an impressive selection of elegant stationery, ink, pens and leather-bound notebooks. I’ve always loved beautiful stationery, so I was particularly taken by the lace-edged place cards and the boxes of correspondence cards. The friendly owner knows his stuff and is only too happy to help. Keep an eye out for the showcase wall of calligraphied envelopes sent to the shop from around the world.
Papier 9 rue du Pont Louis Phillippe More gorgeous stationery, pens, pencils and fabric-bound notebooks. Heaven.
Bleu dans Lile 35 Rue des Deux Ponts Pick up an old-fashioned tin of dragees (sugared almonds) from this sugar haven on the tiny island of Ile St. Louis. The window display is a visual treat packed with nougat, chocolate, lollipops and marshmallows. Keep an eye out for the marshmallow Virgin Marys.
Pom’ Cannelle 27 Rue des Deux Ponts In summer, line up for the famous Berthillon ice-cream served from the window of this café. In winter, warm up inside with hot chocolate and crepes.
Arche de Noe 70 rue St Louis en l'Ile Charming toy store packed with old-fashioned wooden toys, puppets, dolls and an ultra-girlie pink aisle.
Petit Bateau 36 rue de Sévigné (3rd arr) This French chain makes the best long-sleeved striped cotton tops that are inexpensive and instantly chic. This season the ultra-flattering cut features contrast piping around the neckline with a cute little bow. They also stock an extensive range of childrenswear and babywear.
Here are a few more shining jewels in Paris to check out…
Didier Ludot 20 & 24 galerie de Montpensier This boutique-meets-museum stocks an incredible range of vintage couture. I spied an entire rack of Chanel jackets, as well as shelves of designer handbags (loads of Hermes) and rows of shoes.
Walk across the glorious Palais Royal Gardens to Ludot’s third boutique, La Petite Robe Noire. The avenue of trees provides a cool shady break on a hot summer’s day. Watch the locals sunning themselves by the fountain (and the tiny sparrows playing in the dust).
La Petite Robe Noire 125 galerie de Valois What’s not to love about a shop devoted entirely to little black dresses? Ignore the astronomical prices and admire instead the museum-quality vintage couture (Dior et al), as well as Ludot’s own range of vintage-inspired black frocks.
Astier de Villatte 173 rue St. Honoré www.astierdevillatte.com Take home a few pieces of these distinctive rustic French ceramics. I liked the white-glazed platters and the little birds.
Colette 213 rue St. Honoré www.colette.fr It’s fair to say that Colette is responsible for the term “concept store”. And it’s still the leader of the pack, with a hipster’s collection of cosmetics, fashion, books, music and food. It was nice to see Australian beauty brands Aesop and ModelCo in the mix. The fashion floor upstairs with its forest of designer-clad mannequins is also a lot of fun.
Cacharel 368 rue St. Honoré www.cacharel.com Two floors of Cacharel is my idea of a fab shopping experience. Nice new range of handbags, and I’m loving their patent-leather bon-bon necklaces. Head downstairs for their sweet range of children’s clothes.
Comptoir des Contonniers 342 rue St. Honoré www.comptoirdescotonniers.com I’m a big fan of this label and its love of simple, streamlined garments with a strong graphic sensibility. This season, their smock dresses in graphic prints of grey and navy get my vote. p.s. They have five stores in London.
Ah, Paris, you’ve captured my heart again … and the better part of my wallet. Taking advantage of the English long weekend, I headed over to Paris for a short break of sightseeing, picnic-partaking (think: champagne, cheese and baguettes under perfect blue skies) and a spot of shopping.
It was bliss, but be warned about Paris in August, especially if you’re serious about shopping and food. Most of the city shuts down for the whole month, as the locals take off for their summer holidays. Many of the shops and restaurants I had planned to visit were closed. The upside is that it’s quieter than usual and summer is the perfect time in Paris to indulge in a cheeky 3pm framboise glace.
If you want to get the best out of Paris shopping, you need to be well-prepared and sort out what you want to see and do in advance, and then tackle it geographically.
Paris is divided into districts (aka arrondissements) that spiral out from the centre of the city. (Trust Paris to have a city plan with such an avant-garde design motif – “Grid? Non!” – recalling the delicate pattern on a snail’s shell, or the luscious swirl of buttercream icing on top of a cupcake, or the infinite array of shopping opportunities … OK, I’ll stop now).
I stayed in my favourite part of Paris: the Marais, which is steeped in history and has a strong Jewish culture. This utterly delightful little place in the world is home to a plethora of boutiques, galleries, bars, cafes and some of the best courtyards in the city.
Here’s my list for shopping in the 3rd arr:
Shine 15 rue de Poitou This light-filled boutique stocks a wide selection of cool labels, including See by Chloe, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Preen, Cheap Monday and True Religion. I made a beeline for the traditional French Repetto leather ballet pumps, which are beautifully crafted and have the softest leather uppers – truly the comfiest flats around (and worn by French ballerinas!).
AB33 33 rue Charlot Head here for French labels including Vanessa Bruno’s diffusion line, Athe.
Martin Grant 10 rue Charlot www.martingrantparis.com (Closed 3 weeks in August) This hugely talented Australian fashion designer is known for his flattering cuts, exquisite tailoring and elegant designs. Oh, and Cate Blanchett is also a big fan.
Abaco 68 blvd. de Sebastopol Stop here for slouchy leather bags.
Abou d'Abi Bazar 10 rue des Francs Bourgeois www.aboudabibazar.com This boutique is a fashion-crowd favourite, stocking mostly Parisian designers including Tara Jarmon, Antik Batik, Isabel Marant and Stella Forest.
American Apparel 123 rue Vieille due Temple www.americanapparel.net Stock up on cult cotton tees, tank tops and bodysuits - the wide-scoop necklines are ultra-flattering. Don’t miss the cute baby range.
Bonton 118 rue Vieille du Temple www.bonton.fr Beautiful French baby and children’s store, with a fashion-forward children’s clothing line (think tiny floral-print blouses, and knits in muted shades of charcoal, oyster and tobacco). There is also a fine selection of nursery furniture, bed and bathware and children’s books (including the French Martine series). I liked their cute-n-quirky duck, squirrel, lamb and mushroom lamps (around €45).
A.P.C. 112 rue Vielle-du-Temple www.apc.fr Cult French brand with a minimalist aesthetic. Fabulous jeans. I love their new season range, which features smock shift dresses in black and mustard.
Hysope & cie 104 rue Vielle du Temple Come here for beautiful blooms and creative floral arrangements. The window display is a visual treat.
Vanessa Bruno 100 rue Vieille du Temple www.vanessabruno.com My favourite Parisian designer, known for her feminine tailoring and unfussy aesthetic. Check out her lush range of handbags, including the new Autumn/Winter metallic leather line.
Erotokritos 99 rue Vieille du Temple www.erotokritos.com This women’s fashion boutique is a local favourite. I like their Autumn/Winter line-up of cotton jersey tops and smock dresses with lace panel inserts.
Les Petites 98 rue Vieille du Temple www.lespetites.fr Come here for quality cashmere and brightly-coloured cute frocks. Their Missoni-inspired striped dresses are most covetable.
L’Artisan Fleuriste 95 rue Vieille du Temple Oh, the roses!
Celis 72 rue Vieille du Temple This tiny little store sells handmade knitted finger puppers and children’s jumpers.
Manoush 75 rue Vieille du Temple www.manoush.com Ultra-feminine boutique with a range of beautiful frocks and accessories. I like their current ‘60s-style dresses and coats with gathered sleeves (although I didn’t dig the rabbit fur collars). Expect lots of pink and kittens.
Jamin Puech 68 rue Vieille du Temple www.jamin-puech.com It’s a bit of thrill to view the entire current collection of Jamin Puech’s divine handbags in one place. Each piece is a work of art in itself, exquisitely crafted in a breathtaking array of materials and embellished with buttons, embroidery and beading. The sales wall held me captivated for a long time, but I was equally enamoured by the stunning hand-crafted flower brooches. The perfect Paris souvenir.
Paul & Joe Sister/ Homme 56/58 rue Vieille du Temple www.paulandjoe.com Get a fix of Sophie Albou’s ultra-desirable label for both men and women at this twin shop. Autumn/Winter 07-08 sees more ‘60s-style smock shift dresses (big trend) as well as blouses with bell-sleeves and loads of soft knitted berets and hats (yes, I know it’s Paris, but trust me, hats are going to be huge – especially perched on a jaunty angle with a sweep of fringe peeping out).
Where to eat in the 3rd arr:
La Chaise au Plafond 10 rue de Tresor French food at reasonable prices (and Martin Grant’s favourite local bistro).
Les Philosophes 28 rue Vieille du Temple Make a shopping pitstop at this café.
Chez Omar 47 rue de Bretagne Head here for the delicious couscous, friendly staff and a buzzy atmosphere.
La Perle 78 rue Vieille du Temple Favourite local café for models and photographers.
Other things to see in the 3rd arr:
Musee National Picasso 5 rue Thorigny www.musee-picasso.fr Allow time to check out this gallery devoted to Picasso’s paintings, sculptures and ceramics.
Galerie Yvon Lambert 108 rue Vieille du Temple www.yvon-lambert.com Contemporary art gallery. If you’re in Paris during September and October this year, don’t miss the Andy Warhol Intimate exhibition.
I was pretty excited when I spotted this lemon sorbet stunner shopping in Colette - for me she was the epitome of cool, laid-back Parisienne style with a sweet vintage edge.
It was only after I approached her for a photo that I noticed that the tall, lanky husband (with cool specs) waiting patiently nearby was none other than Jarvis Cocker, and my lemon sorbet inspiration was fashion stylist Camille Bidault-Waddington. Happy Endings!
A wee birdy told me that Camille is wearing a vintage dress from London, Mulberry handbag, and espadrilles from the south of France.
The last time I saw an original Celia Birtwell print, it was behind a glass cabinet at the brilliant Ossie Clark exhibition at the V&A museum in 2003. I missed the first two seasons of Celia Birtwell at Topshop, but I'm excited about being in London for the new collection which has just hit stores. The dreamy floral prints are Birtwell at her best. Prices start at £45 for blouses, but check out one of the gorgeous limited edition print scarves for £18:
I’m looking for a good dressmaker in London. Could you recommend one? I’m after someone that can make me a ‘50s-style Wiggle dress. – Azka
Oh, lucky birdy, a ‘50s-style Wiggle dress is the sassiest choice for a chic-n-sexy look, and the originator of the new so-called “body conscious” trend. And you’re heading in the right direction wanting it made-to-measure, as you really need the garment to fit like a glove. (I learnt the hard way when I went shopping for a Wiggle dress last year on Ebay. Three ill-fitting vintage frocks later – two I could not get beyond my hips – and I discovered that unless we share the same DNA, other people’s Wiggles were not the way to go).
I haven’t used a dressmaker in London, and all my usual sources for recommendations were thick on tailors and thin on dressmakers of the non-wedding variety. But I’ve found three dressmakers who sound like they can whip up a Wiggle for you. At least get a quote from each one and suss out if they’ve got a handle on what you’re after:
RozDesigns www.rozdesigns.com 39 Mayfield Avenue North Finchley London N12 9JG Tel: 020-8446-5555 Email: roz.designs@btinternet.com
Brown Atelier Tel: 078 1622 2841 20 Woodhouse Road North Finchley N12 0RG
In the meantime, I do recommend that you check out Whirling Turban for their truly fabulous online made-to-measure service. They design their own vintage-inspired frocks and source the most gorgeous vintage fabrics and Chinese brocades for you to choose from. They take all your measurements and are particularly finicky about fit, so allow enough time for them to create the perfect Wiggle for you. One of my BFFs in Australia had a sensational Whirling Turban creation for a Shag launch (the same event that led to my sad Ebay search for a Wiggle). She chose a wild Tiki print and was the sauciest wahini in the place. And they even made her the sweetest matching fan. Here's another cute look from Whirling Turban:
While most of their frocks feature a sarong-style wrap element, you could ask them for a variation on the pattern, such as a fitted pencil skirt instead.
For an off-the-rack Wiggle dress, I also recommend you check out Stop Staring online for 107 vintage and rockabilly-style frocks. You’ll find some fabulous Wiggles in their collection (have a peep at the Starlette dress, Summer Fling, Drama Girl dress, Sydney dress, Manhattan dress, Black Vixen, Leopard Martini dress and the ultra-sexy Black Satin Hollywood dress). Make sure you click on the link to “Our Items Available at Daddy-o’s” and refer to their helpful Sizing Chart for the perfect fit.
If you’ve ever read a Harry Potter book (you have? smart bird!), you’ll be familiar with Honeydukes, the ever-popular sweet shop in Hogsmeade that sells everything from Acid Pops and Cockroach Clusters to Whizzing Fizzbees.
Now while Mrs Kibble’s Olde Sweet Shoppe in Soho doesn’t sell sweets that make you levitate or (thankfully) burn a hole through your tongue, it does capture the magic of an old-fashioned store packed with curios and unusual sweets.
Dozens of glass jars line the windows and walls, and you can pick and mix from an impressive line-up of sweets such as sherbet lemons (95p/100g), clove rock (£1.55/100g), watermelon sticks (50p), liquorice root (50p) and Pontefract cakes (95p/100g). There is also a range of ultra-versatile coloured sherbet crystals, which you can sprinkle on ice-cream, rim cocktail glasses, or dip with a lollipop.
A cabinet of truffles and ganaches also entices, with delectable fillings like William pear ganache, rose creams and violet creams (£3.75/100g). And the chocolate heels (£4.99) make a nice gift for your favourite sartorially-minded friend.
But the best gift award has to go to the very handsome Nostalgic Sweet Jar, which for £15.99 makes a wonderful treat for those with a sweet tooth and a fondness for retro. It’s packed with the goodies you gobbled throughout your childhood, like Flying Saucers, Parma Violets and Anglo Bubbly. For an extra service fee, you can also have the label personalised with a message to your friend. Sweet.
Mrs Kibble’s Olde Sweet Shoppe 57a Brewer Street London W1F9UL Tel: 020 7734 6633 Email: mrskibblesoldesweetshoppe@hotmail.co.uk
